Jewelry
The following bibliography is a guide to some of the more significant titles in our collection. It serves as an introduction to the best information on the topic, and as a starting point for searching the Library's catalog for additional materials. The Library's holdings include dictionaries & encyclopedias, historical surveys, exhibition catalogs, handbooks and manuals. Relevant trade periodicals, directories, and scholarly journals.
Miriam & Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs
Art & Architecture Collection
Jewelry: A Research Guide
The Art & Architecture Collection has a number of outstanding publications on jewelry history and technique. The department's holdings include dictionaries & encyclopedias, historical surveys, exhibition catalogs, handbooks and manuals. Relevant trade periodicals, directories, and scholarly journals can be found here as well as in the Science, Industry and Business Library (SIBL). In addition, Art & Architecture also has some unique antique plate books of original jewelry designs. Over the years, the department has been able to build a premier jewelry book and periodicals collection.
The Art & Architecture Collection is noted for its remarkable holdings in design and the decorative arts. In addition to materials that came from the original Astor, Tilden and Lenox family libraries, key works were acquired throughout the early twentieth-century. Materials are collected in English and Western European languages.
The following bibliography is a guide to some of the more significant titles in our collection. It serves as an introduction to the best information on the topic, and as a starting point for searching the Library's catalog for additional materials. For more extended research advice, please ask for further assistance at the Reference Desk in Room 300.
Using the Catalog
Both the retrospective Dictionary Catalog and CATNYP, the online catalog, use the term Jewelry. Jewelry is then subdivided by geography, period, general themes, and format.
For instance, in CATNYP:
Jewelry—Egypt
Jewelry—Europe—History—19th Century
Jewelry—France—History—20th Century—Pictorial Works
Jewelry—Handbooks and Manual
Related subject headings in CATNYP are:
Jewelry Design
Jewelry Making
Jewelry Private Collections
Jewelry Trade
Jewelry Exhibitions
Gems
Gems Folklore
Gems in Literature
Appraisal and Purchase
Matlins, Antoinette Leonard. Jewelry & Gems, the Buying Guide: How to Buy Diamonds, Colored Gemstones, Pearls, Gold and Jewelry with Confidence and Knowledge. Woodstock, VT: GemStone Press, 1998. *R-SIBL TS756.M28
Miller, Anna M. Gems and Jewelry Appraising: Techniques of Professional Practice. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1988. MNR 88-3457
Miller, Anna M. Illustrated Guide to Jewelry Appraising: Antique, Period, and Modern. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1990.
Zucker, Benjamin. Gems and Jewels: A Connoisseur's Guide. New York: Thames and Hudson, 1984. 3-MNR 85-586
Dictionaries and Encyclopedias
Baxter, Paula A. Encyclopedia of Native American Jewelry. Phoenix: Oryx Press, 2000. *R-HBC 00-10290
Dictionnaire International du Bijou. Edited by Marguerite de Cerval. Paris: Regard, 1998. 3-MNR+ 00-1457
Elsevier's Dictionary of Jewellery and Watchmaking. Compiled by Carl Forget. Amsterdam; New York: Elsevier Science Pub. Co., 1984. MNR 85-618 and #R-Science TS722.E47
Jeweler's Dictionary. Edited by Donald S. McNeil. Radnor, PA: Jeweler's Circular-Keystone, 1976. JSF 97-517 (SIBL)
McGrath, Jinks. The Encyclopedia Of Jewellery Making Techniques. London: Headline, 1995. 3-MNR 96-12243
Newman, Harold. An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry. New York: Thames and Hudson, 1981. MNR 82-702
Handbooks and Manuals
GIA Jeweler's Manual. Santa Monica, CA: Gemological Institute of America, 1989. *R-Science TS729 .L3 1989
Jewelers Pocket Reference Book. Los Angeles: Gemological Institute of America, 1991. 3-MNR
Rathbone, R.L.B., Unit Jewelry: A Handbook for Craftsmen. London: Constable & Co., Ltd., 1921. MNR
Schiffer, Nancy N., Handbook of Fine Jewelry. (West Chester, PA: Schiffer Pub. 1991). MNR+ 93-3606
Technique
Brynner, Irena. Modern Jewelry: Design and Technique. New York: Reinhold Book Corp., 1968. MNR
Gregorietti, Guido. Jewelry: History and Technique from the Egyptians to the Present. Secaucus, NJ: Chartwell Books, 1979. MNR 83-40
The Jewelry Design Source Book. Edited by Patricia Bayer et al. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1989. 3-MNR 91-4492
Krupenia, Deborah. The Art of Jewelry Design: Production Jewelry By 20 Top Designers. Rockport, MA; Cinncinati, OH: Quarry Books; North Light Books, 1997. MNR 97-3734
Meyerowitz, Patricia. Making Jewelry and Sculpture Through Unit Construction. New York: Dover Publications, 1978. JSF 80-484 (SIBL)
Morton, Philip. Contemporary Jewelry: A Studio Handbook. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, 1970. MNO 71-174
Journals and Magazines
Bijoutier. (Paris, France) no. 512, Jan. 1985 – | JSP 87-390 (SIBL) |
Colored Stone. (San Diego, CA) no.1, Jan/Feb 1988 – | JFM 01-218 |
Gem (Radnor, PA) vol. 1, no. 1 1994/1995 – | JFM 94-820 |
Gold + Silber, Uhren +Schmuck. (Stuttgart, Germany) 1948-1955 | MNOA+ |
100 Schmuckstucke = 100 Jewels. (Ulm, Germany) 2000 – | MNA+ 01-698 |
Jewelers' Circular-Keystone. (Radner, PA) 1935-1977 | *ZAN-M88 (microfilm) |
Jewelry Workers Bulletin. vol .18, no. 1 1954- | TDRA+ |
Lapidary Journal. (San Diego, CA) vol. 1, no. 1 April 1947 - | MNOA |
Ornament. (Los Angeles, CA) vol. 4, no. 1 April 1979 - | 3-MNOA 85-1544 |
General Survey History
Ball, Joanne D. Costume Jewelers: The Golden Age of Design. West Chester, PA: Schiffer Pub., 1990. MNR 92-6897
Bennett, David and Daniela Mascetti. Understanding Jewellery. Woodbridge: Antique Collectors' Club, 1989. MNR 90-11502
Black, Anderson J. The Story of Jewelry. New York: Morrow, 1974. MNR+ 75-634
Bury, Shirley. Jewellery, 1789-1910: The International Era. Woodbridge: Antique Collector's Club, 1991. 3-MNR 91-1425
Ernst, A. and Jean Heiniger. The Great Book of Jewels. Boston: New York Graphic Society, 1974. MNR+ 75-821
Evans, Joan. A History of Jewellery 1100-1870. Boston, MA: Boston Book Art, 1970. MNR 72-735
Gere, Charlotte. American and European Jewelry, 1830-1914. New York: Crown Publishers, 1975. MNR 75-2410
Guadalupi, Gianni. The World's Greatest Treasures: Masterworks in Gold and Gem. London: Thames & Hudson, 1998. 3-MNR+ 99-11844
Hughes, Graham. The Art of Jewelry. New York: Viking Press, 1972). MNR+ 73-494
Jewelry 7,000 Years: An International History and Illustrated Survey from the Collection of the British Museum. Edited by Hugh Tait. New York: H.N. Abrams, 1987. 3-MNR 87-3759
The Master Jewelers. Edited by A. Kenneth Snowman. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 3-MNR+ 90-13383
Moro, Ginger. European Designer Jewelry. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 1995. 3-MNR 96-17323
Phillips, Clare. Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present. London; New York: Thames and Hudson, 1996. MNR 96-12239
Rogers, Frances and Alice Beard. 5000 Years of Gems and Jewelry. New York: Frederick A. Stokes Co., 1940. 3-MNR
Steingraber, Erich. Antique Jewelry: Its History in Europe from 800 to 1900. London: Thames & Hudson, 1957. MNR
Non-Western Jewelry
Baxter, Paula A. Southwest Silver Jewelry [Navajo and Pueblo Indian Jewelry]. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing, 2001. JGF 01-101 (General Research Division)
Borel, France. The Splendor of Ethnic Jewelry: From the Colette and Jean-Pierre Ghysels Collection. New York: H.N. Abrams, 1994. 3-MNR 94-14516
Ethnic Jewelry. Edited by John Mack. New York: Abrams, 1988. 3-MNR 89-20574
Period, Style and Type of Jewelry
Armstrong, Nancy. Victorian Jewelry. London: Studio Vista, 1976. MNR 77-743
Art Deco Fashion and Jewellery. Kent: Grange Books, 1998. 3-MNR 99-3060
The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910. Contributions by Michael Koch et al. London: Thomas Heneage & Co., Ltd., 1990. 3-MNR 91-9871
Cutsem, Anne van. A World of Rings: Africa, Asia, America. Milan: Skira Editore, 2000. 3-MNR 01-4285
Gere, Charlotte and Geoffrey C. Munn. Pre-Raphaelite to Arts and Crafts Jewellery. Woodbridge, UK: Antique Collectors' Club, 1996. MNK 97-3247
Isaac Delgado Museum of Art. Treasures by Peter Carl Faberge and Other Master Jewelers: The Matilda Geddings Gray Foundation Collection. New Orleans: Matilda Geddings Gray Foundation, 1972. MNR 74-1120
Lancaster, David. Art Nouveau Jewellery. London: Little, Brown, 1996. 3-MNR 98-9692
Lightbown, Ronald W. Mediaeval European Jewellery. London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 1992. MNR+ 92-18409
Mascetti, Daniela and Amanda Triossi. Earrings from Antiquity to the Present. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 3-MNR+ 90-13614
Peter, Mary. Collecting Victorian Jewellery. London: McGibbon & Kee, 1970. MNR 71-164
Princely Magnificence: Court Jewels of the Renaissance, 1500-1630. London: Debrett's Peerage in association with the Victoria & Albert Museum, 1980. MNR 83-2780
Roulet, Sylvie. Art Deco Jewelry. New York: Rizzoli, 1984. MNR+ 87-3796
Sataloff, Joseph. Art Nouveau Jewelry. Bryn Mawr, PA: Dorrance & Co., 1984. MNR 85-211
Scarisbrick, Diana. Rings: Symbols of Wealth, Power and Affection. London: Thames and Hudson, 1993. MNR+ 93-5372
Scarisbrick, Diana. Tiara. San Francisco: Chronicle Books in association with the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, 2000. 3-MNR 01-940
Surveys by Country
Aldred, Cyril. Jewels of the Pharaohs: Egyptian Jewelry of the Dynastic Period. New York: Ballantine Books, 1978. MNR 79-470
Beauty, Wealth and Power: Jewels and Ornaments of Asia. San Francisco: Asian Art Museum, 1992. 3-MNR 93-3037
Clarke, Duncan. African Hats and Jewelry. Edison, NJ: Chartwell Books, 1998. Sc G 00-64 (Schomburg Center)
Fales, Martha Gandy. Jewelry in America, 1600-1900. Woodridge, Suffolk: Antique Collectors' Club, 1995. MNR 96-2709
Muller, Priscilla E. Jewels in Spain, 1500-1800. New York: Hispanic Society of America, 1972. 3-MNR 91-1277
Proddow, Penny and Debra Healy. American Jewelry: Glamour and Tradition. New York: Rizzoli, 1987. 3-MNR 87-6205
Scarisbrick, Diana. Ancestral Jewels. London: Deutsch, 1989. 3-MNR+ 90-881
Scarisbrick, Diana. Jewellery in Britain, 1066-1837: A Documentary, Social Literary, and Artistic Survey. Wilby, Norwich: Michael Russell, 1994. MNR 95-10494
Schofield, Anne. Australian Jewellery: 19th and early 20th Century. Balmain, NSW: David Ely Press, 1990. 3-MNR 91-11751
Vever, Henri. La Bijouterie Francaise au XIXe Siecle, 1800-1900. Paris: H. Floury, 1906-08. MNR
Twentieth Century
Anderson, Patricia. Contemporary Jewellery: The Australian Experience, 1977-1987. Newton, NSW: Millenium, 1988. 3-MNR 92-7045
Blauer, Ettagale. Contemporary American Jewelry Design. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1991. 3-MNR 91-9886
Cartlidge, Barbara. Twentieth-Century Jewelry. New York, H.N. Abrams, 1985. 3-MNR 85-4392
Dormer, Peter & Ralph Turner. The New Jewelry: Trends and Traditions. London: Thames & Hudson, 1985. 3-MNR 85-3537
Drutt, Helen W. and Peter Dormer. Jewelry of Our Time: Art, Ornament and Obsession. London: Thames and Hudson, 1995. MNR 96-3152
Game, Amanda and Elizabeth Goring. Jewellery Moves: Ornament for the 21st Century. Edinburgh, Scotland: NMS Pub., 1998. 3-MNR 96-3152
Hughes, Graham. Modern Jewelry, An International Survey, 1890-1963. New York: Crown Publishers, 1963. MNR
Jewels of Fantasy: Costume Jewelry of the Twentieth Century. Edited by Deanna Farneti Cera. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1992. MNR+ 92-18393
Lewin, Susan G. One of a Kind: American Art Jewelry Today. New York: H.N. Abrams, 1994. MNR 94-14673
Proddow, Penny, Debra Healy, and Marion Fasel. Hollywood Jewels: Movies, Jewelry, Stars. New York: H.N. Abrams, 1992. MNR+ 92-19
Rudoe, Judy. Cartier 1900-1939. London: British Museum Press, 1997. 3-MNR 96-17323
Turner, Ralph. Jewelry in Europe and America: New Times, New Thinking. London: Thames and Hudson, 1996. 3-MNR 96-11528
Watkins, David. The Best in Contemporary Jewellery. London: Bastfor, 1993. MNR+ 94-8302
West, Janice. Made to Wear: Creativity in Contemporary Jewellery. London: Lund Humphries in association with Lethaby Press; Wappingers Falls, NY: distributed by Antique Collectors' Club, 1998. 3-MNR 98-8384.
Antiques and Collectibles Resources on the Internet
Content prepared by Paula A. Baxter and Matilde Herrero.
February 2003