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Miriam & Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs
Art & Architecture Collection

Jewelry: A Research Guide


Photo 164  in MNR++ (Union of
Soviet Socialist Republics.
Komissariat finansov. Russia's
treasure of diamonds and
Precious stones.)
Photographic Services & Permissions

The Art & Architecture Collection has a number of outstanding publications on jewelry history and technique. The department's holdings include dictionaries & encyclopedias, historical surveys, exhibition catalogs, handbooks and manuals. Relevant trade periodicals, directories, and scholarly journals can be found here as well as in the Science, Industry and Business Library (SIBL). In addition, Art & Architecture also has some unique antique plate books of original jewelry designs. Over the years, the department has been able to build a premier jewelry book and periodicals collection.

The Art & Architecture Collection is noted for its remarkable holdings in design and the decorative arts. In addition to materials that came from the original Astor, Tilden and Lenox family libraries, key works were acquired throughout the early twentieth-century. Materials are collected in English and Western European languages.

The following bibliography is a guide to some of the more significant titles in our collection. It serves as an introduction to the best information on the topic, and as a starting point for searching the Library's catalog for additional materials. For more extended research advice, please ask for further assistance at the Reference Desk in Room 300.

Using the Catalog


Photo 163   Diamond necklace
with sapphires 
in MNR++
(Union of Soviet Socialist
Republics. Komissariat finansov.
Russia's treasure of diamonds
and Precious stones.)
Photographic Services & Permissions

Both the retrospective Dictionary Catalog and CATNYP, the online catalog, use the term Jewelry. Jewelry is then subdivided by geography, period, general themes, and format.

For instance, in CATNYP:

Jewelry—Egypt
Jewelry—Europe—History—19th Century
Jewelry—France—History—20th Century—Pictorial Works
Jewelry—Handbooks and Manual

Related subject headings in CATNYP are:

Jewelry Design
Jewelry Making
Jewelry Private Collections
Jewelry Trade
Jewelry Exhibitions
Gems
Gems Folklore
Gems in Literature

 

Appraisal and Purchase

Matlins, Antoinette Leonard. Jewelry & Gems, the Buying Guide: How to Buy Diamonds, Colored Gemstones, Pearls, Gold and Jewelry with Confidence and Knowledge. Woodstock, VT: GemStone Press, 1998. *R-SIBL TS756.M28

Miller, Anna M. Gems and Jewelry Appraising: Techniques of Professional Practice. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1988. MNR 88-3457

Miller, Anna M. Illustrated Guide to Jewelry Appraising: Antique, Period, and Modern. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1990.

Zucker, Benjamin. Gems and Jewels: A Connoisseur's Guide. New York: Thames and Hudson, 1984. 3-MNR 85-586

Dictionaries and Encyclopedias

Baxter, Paula A. Encyclopedia of Native American Jewelry. Phoenix: Oryx Press, 2000. *R-HBC 00-10290

Dictionnaire International du Bijou. Edited by Marguerite de Cerval. Paris: Regard, 1998. 3-MNR+ 00-1457

Elsevier's Dictionary of Jewellery and Watchmaking. Compiled by Carl Forget. Amsterdam; New York: Elsevier Science Pub. Co., 1984. MNR 85-618 and #R-Science TS722.E47

Jeweler's Dictionary. Edited by Donald S. McNeil. Radnor, PA: Jeweler's Circular-Keystone, 1976. JSF 97-517 (SIBL)

McGrath, Jinks. The Encyclopedia Of Jewellery Making Techniques. London: Headline, 1995. 3-MNR 96-12243

Newman, Harold. An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry. New York: Thames and Hudson, 1981. MNR 82-702

Handbooks and Manuals

GIA Jeweler's Manual. Santa Monica, CA: Gemological Institute of America, 1989. *R-Science TS729 .L3 1989

Jewelers Pocket Reference Book. Los Angeles: Gemological Institute of America, 1991. 3-MNR

Rathbone, R.L.B., Unit Jewelry: A Handbook for Craftsmen. London: Constable & Co., Ltd., 1921. MNR

Schiffer, Nancy N., Handbook of Fine Jewelry. (West Chester, PA: Schiffer Pub. 1991). MNR+ 93-3606

Technique

Brynner, Irena. Modern Jewelry: Design and Technique. New York: Reinhold Book Corp., 1968. MNR

Gregorietti, Guido. Jewelry: History and Technique from the Egyptians to the Present. Secaucus, NJ: Chartwell Books, 1979. MNR 83-40

The Jewelry Design Source Book. Edited by Patricia Bayer et al. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1989. 3-MNR 91-4492

Krupenia, Deborah. The Art of Jewelry Design: Production Jewelry By 20 Top Designers. Rockport, MA; Cinncinati, OH: Quarry Books; North Light Books, 1997. MNR 97-3734

Meyerowitz, Patricia. Making Jewelry and Sculpture Through Unit Construction. New York: Dover Publications, 1978. JSF 80-484 (SIBL)

Morton, Philip. Contemporary Jewelry: A Studio Handbook. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, 1970. MNO 71-174

Journals and Magazines


Bijoutier. (Paris, France) no. 512, Jan. 1985 – JSP 87-390 (SIBL)
Colored Stone. (San Diego, CA) no.1, Jan/Feb 1988 – JFM 01-218
Gem (Radnor, PA) vol. 1, no. 1 1994/1995 –  JFM 94-820
Gold + Silber, Uhren +Schmuck. (Stuttgart, Germany) 1948-1955  MNOA+
100 Schmuckstucke = 100 Jewels. (Ulm, Germany) 2000 – MNA+ 01-698
Jewelers' Circular-Keystone. (Radner, PA) 1935-1977 *ZAN-M88 (microfilm)
Jewelry Workers Bulletin. vol .18, no. 1 1954- TDRA+
Lapidary Journal. (San Diego, CA) vol. 1, no. 1 April 1947 -  MNOA
Ornament. (Los Angeles, CA) vol. 4, no. 1 April 1979 - 3-MNOA 85-1544

General Survey History

Ball, Joanne D. Costume Jewelers: The Golden Age of Design. West Chester, PA: Schiffer Pub., 1990. MNR 92-6897

Bennett, David and Daniela Mascetti. Understanding Jewellery. Woodbridge: Antique Collectors' Club, 1989. MNR 90-11502

Black, Anderson J. The Story of Jewelry. New York: Morrow, 1974. MNR+ 75-634

Bury, Shirley. Jewellery, 1789-1910: The International Era. Woodbridge: Antique Collector's Club, 1991. 3-MNR 91-1425

Ernst, A. and Jean Heiniger. The Great Book of Jewels. Boston: New York Graphic Society, 1974. MNR+ 75-821

Evans, Joan. A History of Jewellery 1100-1870. Boston, MA: Boston Book Art, 1970. MNR 72-735

Gere, Charlotte. American and European Jewelry, 1830-1914. New York: Crown Publishers, 1975. MNR 75-2410

Guadalupi, Gianni. The World's Greatest Treasures: Masterworks in Gold and Gem. London: Thames & Hudson, 1998. 3-MNR+ 99-11844

Hughes, Graham. The Art of Jewelry. New York: Viking Press, 1972). MNR+ 73-494

Jewelry 7,000 Years: An International History and Illustrated Survey from the Collection of the British Museum. Edited by Hugh Tait. New York: H.N. Abrams, 1987. 3-MNR 87-3759

The Master Jewelers. Edited by A. Kenneth Snowman. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 3-MNR+ 90-13383

Moro, Ginger. European Designer Jewelry. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 1995. 3-MNR 96-17323

Phillips, Clare. Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present. London; New York: Thames and Hudson, 1996. MNR 96-12239

Rogers, Frances and Alice Beard. 5000 Years of Gems and Jewelry. New York: Frederick A. Stokes Co., 1940. 3-MNR

Steingraber, Erich. Antique Jewelry: Its History in Europe from 800 to 1900. London: Thames & Hudson, 1957. MNR

Non-Western Jewelry

Baxter, Paula A. Southwest Silver Jewelry [Navajo and Pueblo Indian Jewelry]. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing, 2001. JGF 01-101 (General Research Division)

Borel, France. The Splendor of Ethnic Jewelry: From the Colette and Jean-Pierre Ghysels Collection. New York: H.N. Abrams, 1994. 3-MNR 94-14516

Ethnic Jewelry. Edited by John Mack. New York: Abrams, 1988. 3-MNR 89-20574

Period, Style and Type of Jewelry

Armstrong, Nancy. Victorian Jewelry. London: Studio Vista, 1976. MNR 77-743

Art Deco Fashion and Jewellery. Kent: Grange Books, 1998. 3-MNR 99-3060

The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910. Contributions by Michael Koch et al. London: Thomas Heneage & Co., Ltd., 1990. 3-MNR 91-9871

Cutsem, Anne van. A World of Rings: Africa, Asia, America. Milan: Skira Editore, 2000. 3-MNR 01-4285

Gere, Charlotte and Geoffrey C. Munn. Pre-Raphaelite to Arts and Crafts Jewellery. Woodbridge, UK: Antique Collectors' Club, 1996. MNK 97-3247

Isaac Delgado Museum of Art. Treasures by Peter Carl Faberge and Other Master Jewelers: The Matilda Geddings Gray Foundation Collection. New Orleans: Matilda Geddings Gray Foundation, 1972. MNR 74-1120

Lancaster, David. Art Nouveau Jewellery. London: Little, Brown, 1996. 3-MNR 98-9692

Lightbown, Ronald W. Mediaeval European Jewellery. London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 1992. MNR+ 92-18409

Mascetti, Daniela and Amanda Triossi. Earrings from Antiquity to the Present. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 3-MNR+ 90-13614

Peter, Mary. Collecting Victorian Jewellery. London: McGibbon & Kee, 1970. MNR 71-164

Princely Magnificence: Court Jewels of the Renaissance, 1500-1630. London: Debrett's Peerage in association with the Victoria & Albert Museum, 1980. MNR 83-2780

Roulet, Sylvie. Art Deco Jewelry. New York: Rizzoli, 1984. MNR+ 87-3796

Sataloff, Joseph. Art Nouveau Jewelry. Bryn Mawr, PA: Dorrance & Co., 1984. MNR 85-211

Scarisbrick, Diana. Rings: Symbols of Wealth, Power and Affection. London: Thames and Hudson, 1993. MNR+ 93-5372

Scarisbrick, Diana. Tiara. San Francisco: Chronicle Books in association with the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, 2000. 3-MNR 01-940

Surveys by Country

Aldred, Cyril. Jewels of the Pharaohs: Egyptian Jewelry of the Dynastic Period. New York: Ballantine Books, 1978. MNR 79-470

Beauty, Wealth and Power: Jewels and Ornaments of Asia. San Francisco: Asian Art Museum, 1992. 3-MNR 93-3037

Clarke, Duncan. African Hats and Jewelry. Edison, NJ: Chartwell Books, 1998. Sc G 00-64 (Schomburg Center)

Fales, Martha Gandy. Jewelry in America, 1600-1900. Woodridge, Suffolk: Antique Collectors' Club, 1995. MNR 96-2709

Muller, Priscilla E. Jewels in Spain, 1500-1800. New York: Hispanic Society of America, 1972. 3-MNR 91-1277

Proddow, Penny and Debra Healy. American Jewelry: Glamour and Tradition. New York: Rizzoli, 1987. 3-MNR 87-6205

Scarisbrick, Diana. Ancestral Jewels. London: Deutsch, 1989. 3-MNR+ 90-881

Scarisbrick, Diana. Jewellery in Britain, 1066-1837: A Documentary, Social Literary, and Artistic Survey. Wilby, Norwich: Michael Russell, 1994. MNR 95-10494

Schofield, Anne. Australian Jewellery: 19th and early 20th Century. Balmain, NSW: David Ely Press, 1990. 3-MNR 91-11751

Vever, Henri. La Bijouterie Francaise au XIXe Siecle, 1800-1900. Paris: H. Floury, 1906-08. MNR

Twentieth Century

Anderson, Patricia. Contemporary Jewellery: The Australian Experience, 1977-1987. Newton, NSW: Millenium, 1988. 3-MNR 92-7045

Blauer, Ettagale. Contemporary American Jewelry Design. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1991. 3-MNR 91-9886

Cartlidge, Barbara. Twentieth-Century Jewelry. New York, H.N. Abrams, 1985. 3-MNR 85-4392

Dormer, Peter & Ralph Turner. The New Jewelry: Trends and Traditions. London: Thames & Hudson, 1985. 3-MNR 85-3537

Drutt, Helen W. and Peter Dormer. Jewelry of Our Time: Art, Ornament and Obsession. London: Thames and Hudson, 1995. MNR 96-3152

Game, Amanda and Elizabeth Goring. Jewellery Moves: Ornament for the 21st Century. Edinburgh, Scotland: NMS Pub., 1998. 3-MNR 96-3152

Hughes, Graham. Modern Jewelry, An International Survey, 1890-1963. New York: Crown Publishers, 1963. MNR

Jewels of Fantasy: Costume Jewelry of the Twentieth Century. Edited by Deanna Farneti Cera. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1992. MNR+ 92-18393

Lewin, Susan G. One of a Kind: American Art Jewelry Today. New York: H.N. Abrams, 1994. MNR 94-14673

Proddow, Penny, Debra Healy, and Marion Fasel. Hollywood Jewels: Movies, Jewelry, Stars. New York: H.N. Abrams, 1992. MNR+ 92-19

Rudoe, Judy. Cartier 1900-1939. London: British Museum Press, 1997. 3-MNR 96-17323

Turner, Ralph. Jewelry in Europe and America: New Times, New Thinking. London: Thames and Hudson, 1996. 3-MNR 96-11528

Watkins, David. The Best in Contemporary Jewellery. London: Bastfor, 1993. MNR+ 94-8302

West, Janice. Made to Wear: Creativity in Contemporary Jewellery. London: Lund Humphries in association with Lethaby Press; Wappingers Falls, NY: distributed by Antique Collectors' Club, 1998. 3-MNR 98-8384.

Antiques and Collectibles Resources on the Internet

Costumes : Jewelry JIC (Jewelry Information Center):
Links to a Variety of Thematic Sites
Journal of Antiques and Collectibles  MetalSmith
Getty Museum Jewelry Collection Ganokskin: 
Tips from the Jeweler's Bench
Antiques Jewelry Online  Jewelry Suppliers and Technical Resources
ArtMetal Peter Carl Faberge

 

Content prepared by Paula A. Baxter and Matilde Herrero.

February 2003

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