Art & Architecture Collection > Costume and Fashion History: A Guide to Resources

Historical Surveys and Fashion Theory (20th Century)

The development of a scholarly literature on costume history and fashion theory is largely a product of research that began in earnest in the mid-to-late 1960s. Historical surveys provide far-ranging descriptions and illustrations that permit readers to view dress changes over an extended period of time. The first important fashion theory publications, however, treated clothing as a key symptom of social change.

Batterberry, Michael. Mirror, mirror: a social history of fashion. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, 1977. (MMC+ 78-849)
This study’s useful and rather spirited methodology gives the reader a well-drawn frame of reference for clothing’s evolution from antiquity to the modern era.

Boucher, François. 20,000 years of fashion: the history of costume and personal
adornment.  New York: H.N. Abrams, 1967. (MMC)
A standard illustrated, textbook-like treatment of clothing that gives readers a running visual and descriptive timeline of stylistic change.

Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth century fashion. London: Batsford, 1992. (MMK 92-15879)
An important, self-contained look at the production of clothing for that century. Styles and modes are related to historical developments in technology and lifestyle.

Clancy, Deirdre. Costume since 1945: couture, street style, and anti-fashion. New York: Drama Publishers, 1996. (MME 97-279)
This book attempts to capture the more informal, popular culture influences that have affected modern dress since World War II. Shows the impact of media and technology as well.

De Marly, Diana. The history of haute couture 1850-1950. New York: Holmes and Meier, 1980. (MMC 81-874)

A definitive examination of haute couture’s origins and impetus, including evaluation of the great couturiers Worth and Poiret. Covers the development of couture houses and their context within marketplace and consumer demand.

Laver, James. Costume and fashion: a concise history. 4th ed. New York: Thames and Hudson, 2002. (MMC 95-13801)
Laver was one of the most important early costume historians, relating dress and social history in both meaningful and entertaining ways.

Steele, Valerie. Paris fashion: a cultural history. Oxford; New York: Berg, 1998. (3-MME 99-9956)
This work links the historical and social factors that made Paris such an important center for fashion.

Steele, Valerie. Women of fashion: twentieth-century designers. New York: Rizzoli, 1991. (MME+ 92-6954)
Treats the women who helped define the term “fashion designer,” while showing the feminine side of an industry most often dominated by men.

Yarwood, Doreen. Costume of the Western world: pictorial guide and glossary. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1980. (MMC 86-83)
A well-rounded visual survey of western dress with quick-at-a-glance drawings.  Historical dress terms are the main focus with century summaries that start in 1000 (the early Middle Ages) and run up to 1980.